The choice of tools

Before beginning to paint it's preferibile to have all the tools that you want to use: flat brush , seam, medium paint-brush (good for corner and retouch), triangular spatula, scraping, trowler (to make stucco), clean rags, old newspapers, width of plastic (to cover or protect floor and furnitures), stick tape (to protect skirting board, windows and doors), abrasive paper and sponge (to clean up the support).

How to prepare brushes

Before using them, put seam and paint-brushes in the water for about 30 minutes. Then, wash them with water and soap and sqeeze them.

How to prepare the room

To remove furnitures and furnishings. If this isn't possible, put all in the centre of the room and repair them with a with of plastic, old sheets or newspapers. To cover the floor in the same way. To protect skirting-boards, windows and doors and windows chassis with newspapers and cresped stick tape; to take off switching in order to remove switches tile. Don't forget to put some insulating tape on uncovered lead-in wires.

v     It's a good rule to paint before the ceiling, starting from the corner towards the center, spreading the first hand diagonally.

v   To start always top to down, (covering the ceilings with a cardboard).

v     If you use the flat brush in order to paitn the room, to wet it in the can until to half and dewater it on the border for removing excess paint. If you use the seam, dewater on the apposite gauze.

v     In order to avoid slobbers, specially when you use the seam, we suggest to paint before walls borders with a medium paint brush, doing stripe of about 10 cm, down the borders.

v     Usually, in order to paint, it's begun from the light source (for example from the window), going towards the opposite site.

v      Subdividing, ideally, the surfaces in squared from 1 meter x 1 meter, spreading the paint first vertically and then horizontally.

v      For a best result with seam, spread the product with a "W" form (about 60 cm), uniforming before vertically and then horizontally.

v      Never leave working at half: it's very important to arrive at least to the alive corner of the wall or to the door.

How to paint....  

......a new wall

First of all the wall must be perfectly dry. If it was not therefore, before painting, it's important that it is at least seasoned of 30 days. If you do not observe that, you shall obtain a very bad result and it could be created bubble cause from the salt of the support. Done this verification, it's possible to start. First, to give a hand of insulator in order to neutralize absorbend effect of the support: if there i civil plastering (granular and imperfect) it's necessary to put some stucco. The surface must be brushed and thne give another hand of insulator. If you have chalk plastering it's necessary to make attention, because the surface is tender and it can be scratched. Eventual scratch must be stucco and then uniform with abrasive paper. In order to dust the surface, use a soft paint-brush and then give the insulator. We suggest to use our "Isolante Fissativo s.601" in order to obtain a perfect paint to the wall; in this way is possible to avoid the spots, caused from differentiated absorption of the color. At the end is possible to apply the mural paint.

......a wall already painted

When a wall is already painted, it's necessary verify which type of paint has been used (water or solvent based paint, enamel, etc..). In order to make this, we can help ourselves with a sponge, scouring it in the different part of the wall. The reactions could be three: A) the old paint make bouble - in this case you have line or TEMPERA. It's absolutely remove it with a sponge and scraping, otherwise when you repaint, you'll cause boubles in the new paint. B) the old paint haven't boubles - in this case you have a water based paint. You can repaint, after rubbing down. C) the surface is compact and impermeable - you have enamel. The walls treated with this product must be clean up and all the part must be remove. In fact, if you repaint with a water based paint, you won't have anchorage on the old surface. If the wall has some holes or leaks, it will necessary to remove the plaster with triangular scraping. Then it's possible cover the leacks with our Italstucco s.502 in paste or powder, applying with a spatula. In order to not put in evidence the repaired zone it is opportune to increase the same, using a trowler with blade in steel. Then, to leave dry for about 6 hours and to rub down with medium/thin abrasive papers. At this time is possible to paint.

......a tapestred wall

When the wall are tapestred there are two possibility: if the paper isn't broken, it joins to the wall, it does not have bubbles and it is of clear color, it it can be left on the surface. Otherwise, it is preferibile to detach it from the wall, before cut it and then wet with a sponge (with water if the tapestry is made of paper, with solvent if the tapestry is waterproof). At the end, to detach it slowly helping you with a spatula. After, put stucco on the wall and then give one hand of primer.

Solutions

Paints used once a time, made up of lime or chalk, are today surpassed: they demand a laborious preparation and the result is not satisfactory.

Mural paints more used are distemper and paint based on water. The distempers have low costs but the initial saving does not compensate the disadvantages that derive from this choice: the distempers, infact, attract and accumulate powder and dirt, carry on mould and parasites, after some times they form flours on the surface. The hydro paints work: they are washable and they reject the dirt. They are very easy to apply. 

For a bast result, as finish, we suggest a super washable paint (Supermuraltone s.342): the product give to the wall compactness and it creates a silk effect.